Finishing St. Martin On Air and On the Beach

My last day in St. Martin was filled to the brim, with beach time, great food, and a chance to go on the air.

Fellow American  Jeffrey “Soc” Sochrin heard I was in town and asked if I would come down to his radio station and talk a bit about my trip.  I’ve done a little radio and always enjoyed it so I agreed to do it the morning on the day before I was to leave St. Martin. I also decided that as long as I was heading down to Simpson Bay I would check out some other spots in that area on the Dutch side of the island.

Jeffrey, who has lived in St. Martin for four years, welcomed me to Island 92. We had such a good time talking about my travels and my days covering music that I ended up on the air for nearly an hour. His shows are always entertaining and you can listen (and watch the webcam) on his site even if you aren’t in the Caribbean.  

Before I left we sampled a little Patron XO Café and he told me about his project, Team Golden Dog, which supports animal welfare. It’s a worthy cause worth checking out.

I walked down the block from the radio station to Zee Best, the closest thing you will find to a French café on this side of Paris. Dominic owns three of these bakeries, one of which includes a production plant that makes luscious pastries fresh all day.  The almond cheese croissant was heavenly  and the Montreal native insisted that I take the La Vegetarienne Crepe (spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms and cheese) to go.

From Zee Best, I walked to Toppers Restaurant to meet with the owner himself, Topper Dabeul. Topper had come to St. Martin from Massachusetts, where he had already been in the restaurant business. I needed a bit of time to digest my croissant, so I started off tasting some of his rum.

The Toppers Rhum is flavorful without being overly sweet and comes in some interesting flavors – Banana, Mocha Mamma, Julio Mojito, Apple Pie, Coconut and my favorite, White Chocolate Raspberry. Before I could finish sipping, there was an assortment of good old fashioned comfort food in front of me from the restaurant menu. I hadn’t quite been ready to eat a lot, but I tasted the macaroni & cheese, beef brisket (with homemade mashed potatoes) and Italian meatballs as good as my Aunt Mary used to make.

I took a bus back to the Sonesta and figured I would take advantage of a few free hours on this beautiful island. I walked along the beach for a while, dipping my feet (the water was a bit too rough for swimming) in the clear aqua sea.  As I got closer to the Sunset Grill, the crowd got bigger. It was quite interesting watching people from all over the world speaking different languages, but all waiting for the planes to fly over them.

I headed back to the hotel and spent a bit of time at the swim-up bar where I had a delicious drink that I have to pass along. It’s called a “BBC” and it’s made from Bailey’s Irish Cream, banana liqueur, pina colada mix and amaretto. It’s then blended and poured into a cup laced with chocolate syrup and topped with cinnamon.

Can you think of a better way to top off a week on the beautiful Caribbean island of St. Martin? 

Relaxing in Maho Beach, St. Martin

It is very rare that I am traveling and have a totally free day. Quite honestly, I woke up totally baffled about what to do. Then I remembered that I was on the Caribbean island of St. Martin and the fact that the internet wasn’t working very well and I had nothing scheduled might not be bad at all.

The weather seemed to be about the same each day of my trip – partly sunny in the 70s with a little bit of rain at some point.  I went to the buffet at the Sonesta St.Maarten Ocean Terrace Restaurant for an egg white omelet filled with veggies, saving my calories for the scrumptious croissants. I then headed out to explore the large property before heading downtown.

The hotel is directly in the center of Maho, a small town filled with stores, restaurants, clubs, a market and even a Häagen-Dazs ice cream shop. I walked around a bit exploring, though nothing really caught my eye worth a stop.  I went back to the Sonesta for lunch at the Palms Grill Restaurant. It’s set outside overlooking the beach. I enjoyed the peaceful setting (and a turkey club sandwich) before hitting a lounge chair for some reading.

I am not very good at sitting still for too long (unless I'm at a computer), so I walked along the beach a bit and enjoyed the sunshine and turquoise water. I spent a little time at the pool and had a drink at the swim-up bar, however, the water was just too cold to swim. (Note to all Caribbean hotels: adding cold water to the pool is great when it's 90, but not so great when it's 75.)  There was only one thing left to do – take advantage of the invitation I received to go to the spa.

The Serenity Spa at the Sonesta Maho is just a few months old so everything is brand new. They carry a number of impressive beauty lines, including Sothy’s Paris nourishing body elixirs and moisturizers. I loved the selection, especially vanilla cinnamon, orange & cedar, cherry blossom. They also have a number of Aromatloria products for scrubs and body polishes that relieve muscle aches and stress.

My stress was non-existent as Spa Manager Jardin told me about the products and treatments here, all to get guests in the vacation mood and keep them in that frame of mind. I was already in the relaxation mood, but it went one step further after a perfect massage from Leo.

I couldn’t believe how late it was when I left the spa. (Where does the day go when you are basically doing nothing?)  I quickly changed for dinner and walked down to The Point, Sonesta Maho's fine dining restaurant.

I was told there was a bit of a wait for the restaurant, so I sat at the bar and enjoyed a glass of wine and the live music that they have at the hotel each evening.  Before I even finished my glass I was shown to my table. I was a bit worried that the menu was too filled with fish for me to find something to eat, but they were very accommodating and started me with an antipasto plate, made without anchovies just for me.

 For a main course, I enjoyed the Gnocchi with a tomato eggplant sauce that was creamy without being too rich.  I had a tasty Banana Flambe (actually mousse-like) for dessert with a latte and decided to head downtown to see what was going on at the clubs. 

It was still a bit early for the clubs to get going so I started at the Casino across the street. I managed to keep $10 going on a slot machine for an hour before heading next door to Cheri’s Café. It was a karaoke night and the crowd was growing, but I was getting a bit bleary eyed and decided it was time to turn in. I had a really big day coming up as I was asked to come down to Island 92 Radio and speak on the air. It was something I was excited about and I was equally anxious to check out the area down at St. Martin’s Simpson Bay.

Leaving the Group for More St. Martin

It was my final day at the Westin St. Maarten and my final day with my fellow journalists, but I still had time left on this beautiful island. I was just leaving Dawn Beach for Maho Beach.

I got up early to pack and I took one final walk along the beach at the Westin before joining my new friends for breakfast. The hotel’s executive chef, Robert Reed, came by to meet us all and we told him how much we had enjoyed our dinner at Aura Restaurant before dispersing to pick up our belongings and get ready to leave.

We all piled into the van for the last time and took the scenic road down the mountain to Maho Beach. It was there we met Marla of the St. Maarten Tourism Board (the Dutch side) at the Sunset Bar & Grill.  This place is party central for St. Martin for a number of reasons. First, it is literally right on a beautiful white sand beach, with aqua water. Second, it is also at the beginning of an airport runway, which means the planes fly directly over your head just before they land!

They have a big menu, but we all decided on pizza. Our selection of pizzas were delicious and we washed them down with some Caribbean style drinks. I started with a Bahama Mama (Bacardi Light Rum, Bacardi Coco Rum, fruit punch and pineapple) and finished with a Pink Paradise (Bacardi Coco, Amaretto, cranberry juice and pineapple juice).  We laughed and enjoyed each other’s company one final time, before they took off for the airport and I headed to the Sonesta Maho Beach Resort.

I was supposed to have a friend with me for the next few days, but it didn’t work out. I was on my own and I settled in my Sunset Suite, which included two balconies, a full kitchen, living room, separate bedroom and large bathroom with a Jacuzzi. It could have used a bit of remodeling, but it was more than spacious for me to enjoy for the rest of my St. Martin stay.

The Sonesta Maho Beach was also going through some management changes and I listened to the General Manager Armando Pizzuti tell me about plans to expand the all-inclusive service to include more activities, room service and restaurant options. The one thing they definitely didn’t need to approve was location. The hotel had this great beach on one side and the nightlife and shopping of Maho on the other.

I explored the grounds a bit, but it had been a long day after an extremely long week. I decided to have dinner at the Ocean Terrace Restaurant, where there was an Italian buffet. I only had a half a glass of wine and a small plate of dinner before finally succumbing to fatigue. I had a full day ahead of me to enjoy Maho Beach and there was no reason to rush to it. 

Yachts, Fine Dining and a Luxury Farm in St. Martin

I have been discovering that St. Martin has a lot of different faces. I got to see it all, from the budget to the luxurious, as we spent most of the day in Phillipsburg.

The first thing on the agenda was the 12 Meter Challenge. This yacht race had sounded really exciting, but my stomach was still a bit queasy and I was told that once I got on it would be four hours before I could get off. I bid the group goodbye and wished them luck, and decided to spend my free time exploring downtown Phillipsburg.

We had come into Phillipsburg the previous two days, but from the other side where all the stores and buildings were. This time I entered through the boardwalk, which had not yet been built on my last visit to St. Martin. In was an amazing array of market booths, shops and restaurants – all bordering on miles of beautiful beach. 

I picked up a few bargain sundresses and bought a pair of silver earrings for my daughter, Sam.  I also stopped for a while and admired the sea, with some of the bluest water I had ever seen. I was afraid to eat too much, but I found a cute bakery and enjoyed some tea and a croissant. I didn’t realize just how far I had walked until I saw the pier about 10 blocks away. It was a beautiful day and I enjoyed the walk back there where I was to meet the group for lunch at the Greenhouse Restaurant.

Everyone in the group was excited when they met me at the restaurant as they had won the yacht race. I made a mental note that it was definitely something I should do next time I was back here. I was feeling a bit better and enjoyed a grilled chicken sandwich while Marla from the St. Maarten Tourism Board told us about Johnny Cakes, the only food she felt was truly native to the country. We had a hard time figuring out just what it was so the Greenhouse kitchen made some for us. I felt it was a combination of a biscuit and a zeppole (without the sugar) and we all really enjoyed them.

After lunch we took a long ride up to Loterie Farm on the French side. I had no idea what to expect here as I knew they had a bar, restaurant, pool, hiking, ziplining, a bar and a restaurant, yet it was referred to as a “farm.” It turned out the term came from the fact that it used to be a sugar plantation and the current state was much more about luxury.

We wondered through the beautifully landscaped grounds and up into the treehouses that served as lounges and eateries. It was just magnificent and I think we all wished this had been a day long outing. The pool had a lovely stone floor and was surrounded by comfortable lounges and cabanas. It was tough to leave, but we only had enough time to get back to the Westin Dawn Beach St. Maarten and change for our very special final dinner.

The restaurant we went to is Rare and its Chef Dino Jagtiani also has the restaurant Temptation next door. Both have received accolades throughout the Caribbean. Personally, I preferred the menu from Temptation since I can’t eat fish and like to keep my meat consumption down, but we were lucky enough to be able to sample from both menus. 

We started with some appetizers and while they were all good, the standouts were definitely the Warm Goat Cheese Bonbons with red wine, poached pears and pecans, and the Seared Foie Gras with Sauterne, poached with apricots. The Bruschetta sampler is also a treat, with combinations like chickpea-sweet potato and eggplant-Portobello.

I had the Homemade Spinach-Ricotta Ravioli. The ravioli were superb, but the cream sauce was a little heavy. Nothing, though, looked quite as heavy as Tricia’s Shrimp. They arrived hanging rather than on a plate, shocking us all!

Chef Dino visited with us for a while and told us how challenging it is to get fresh produce and herbs on the island compared to fish. He does his best to get good ingredients as locally as possible and it was certainly evident in the side dishes we devoured, from Spinach Au Gratin to Truffle Mashed Potatoes to a Macaroni & Cheese that someone referred to as the best they have ever had.

No one could decide which dessert to get so we got a punch and shared. The Crème Brulee with different toppings was smooth and just sweet enough and the Vanilla Panna Cotta with Churros was great. I wasn’t quite sure about the Lava Cake with Pop Rocks, but it seemed to be a hit.

We got back to the Westin around 1:00 am and I was asleep quickly. There was one more day left with the group and I wanted to be ready for it.

St. Martin Paradise Despite a Bit of Turbulence

When I go on a press trip with other journalists, the details are usually planned out between the tourist board and public relations agency so the trip is smooth sailing. Sometimes things don’t go exactly as planned. Even in paradise, the seas can be rough – soliterally and figuratively.

We met for an early breakfast at the Ocean Restaurant of the Westin St. Maarten hotel. It was looking a little cloudy out, but we didn’t expect any real rain for our snorkeling trip so we headed out in the van to the pier a few miles away.

The trip sounded like it would be an exciting one, four hours with stops at various small beaches. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it that far. The sea was extremely rough and as soon as we hit a swell that was about six feet coming over the boat, we were ready to head back.

Every cloud has a silver lining and the positive side to missing the boat ride was that we had a few hours with nothing scheduled. That meant a rarity in the press trip world – lying around by the pool and enjoying the free time. It was really nice to relax in the hot sun and I even got to do something I don’t do enough of, read a book (A Million Little Pieces). 

Before heading up to change I took a little stroll by the beach. Dawn Beach, where the Westin is located, is quite beautiful. While it was quite nice to see the waves crashing on the shore as I walked by, I was glad I wasn’t back out on the boat experiencing them.

Lunch was nearby at Mr. Busby’s Beach Bar. The restaurant was literally on the beach, with a thatched roof and almost a Hawaiian feel. We were told that the place transforms at night into Daniel’s, an Italian restaurant complete with red and white tablecloths and low lighting.

There was something very relaxing about having the sand and turquoise water right next to you that made the day even more leisurely.  I have spent most of my life allergic to seafood and used to it, but found myself a bit jealous here when I was the only one not eating the grilled shrimp.

After lunch, most of the group went back to the hotel, but Julia and I decided to head down to Phillipsburg to do a little shopping.  It was a quick trip as I came down with a stomach bug and headed back to the hotel within the hour.

I was stilling feeling a bit queasy at dinner time and decided to skip the evening outing. I heard that dinner – and especially the drag show – at L’Escargot was great. I knew that I still had four more days to enjoy St. Martin and felt confident that the road would get a bit less bumpy than it had been on this day.

Touring and Tasting in St Martin

It was my first full day in St. Martin and it was packed full of activity. The tourism board for the Dutch side wanted to make sure that we had a good look at all of the island.

I started with a good night’s sleep and a great healthy breakfast from the buffet at the Westin Dawn Beach. I sat outside at the Ocean Restaurant to get my first glimpse of the Caribbean Sea before the rest of the group of journalists came down and we piled into the van.

We took a scenic ride to Orient Beach on the French side. It was one of the most beautiful Caribbean beaches I have seen and also includes a nude side for those who are so inclined. We had about a half hour to gaze at the turquoise water and I enjoyed every moment of it (along with the near 80 degree weather).

We stayed on the French side for a while and got to walk around the town of Marigot, which included stores, French style cafes, and a great market.  The market went for miles and sold jewelry, clothes and even a selection of native spices.  Also in Marigot is the ferry that can take you right over to the islands of Anguilla and St. Barth for a day trip.

On the way back to the Dutch side – an easy transition since there is no patrolled border – we drove through the picturesque town of Grand Case, followed by a quick look at Porto Cupecoy. This new development houses the only Dior Spa in the Caribbean and will soon include a large mall filled with designer stores.

Lunch was in the Simpson Bay area at a local place called Clo’s Hot Spot. We had a choice of Honey Barbecue Chicken, Seafood or Goat. I enjoyed the chicken with some Passion Fruit Juice while Chef “Berdy” Charles told us about the island he has made home and how it differs from his native St. Lucia.

After lunch we went to the center city of St. Martin, Phillipsburg. The streets were lined with stores (mostly fine jewelry), but we only made one stop. It was the Guavaberry Emporium that I had been looking forward to all day. I had heard a lot about this spirit and how it had led to a variety of flavors that people came from all over to purchase.

I was able to taste the Guavaberry products, all of which are rum based.  The distillery is actually in the back of the shop and uses fruit that comes mostly from Dominica. Deita, who came to the island from New Jersey 30 years ago, led us through the tasting.

The original Guavaberry rum is slightly sweet and very flavorful. It is often used on the island in a Guavaberry Colada, a delicious version of the Pina Colada. The Passion Fruit and Lime Flavors were alright, but the Mango, Orange and Almond were really great. Although I didn’t like the Vanilla that much on their own, Dieta pointed out how delicious it is for baking, with a truer flavor than vanilla extract.

The Guavaberry Emporium also makes Republic Rum in five year old and eight year old versions. It’s a much different taste from rum I am used to.

After the tour, one of the other journalists and I went to the Hibiscus Spa back at the Westin.  I enjoyed the steam room before heading into one of the nicest relaxation rooms I have seen at a spa. It was huge and had plenty of teas, water and fruit. There was also a menu of light fare if you wanted to spend more time there. I had an excellent body massage with Donna and really appreciated the finish with a eucalyptus facial massage.

I had a little bit of time to relax before dinner at Westin’s Aura Restaurant.  At first I was concerned that there wasn’t much for me to eat with the heavy seafood menu, but it turned out that I had more than enough. While the group devoured the Shrimp Cocktails, Tuna and Crab cakes, I enjoyed an Onion Soup Au Gratin (with a Bertrania Sauvignon Blanc-Pinot Grigio blend).

The Pork Chops were pretty good, but it was the side dishes that we all raved about. The Potatoes Au Gratin, Asparagus Hollandaise and Truffle Macaroni and Cheese were all so good that we ordered more.  We were all so full that we hardly touched the desserts.

We ended the evening with a bottle of Prosecco as we met a group from New Jersey who had come down for the week. We couldn’t stay out late, though, because we had another busy day in St. Martin ahead of us.

Welcome to St Maarten, or is it Saint Martin?

It has been many years since I stepped foot on the island of St. Martin (the common spelling I will be using to keep things simple). I spent the day here while on a cruise around the Caribbean. I vividly remember it being my favorite island on the trip.

From the colorful cobblestone streets on the Dutch side (St. Maarten) to the unique European-style buildings on the French half (Saint Martin), I had been impressed with the beauty of the towns and the beaches.  I remember strolling the streets and doing some jewelry shopping, as well as relaxing on the soft sand with a cool drink.

A lot can change in twenty plus years and I was prepared for that when I decided to take this trip with the tourism board on the Dutch side.  I actually hadn’t done any Caribbean trips since Punta Cana in 2010 and it seemed like the perfect island with lots of restaurants and home grown spirits.

It had been a long day of three flights and I was ready to get to the hotel, where Trish, our escort from KTC Public Relations, and my fellow journalists had already started dinner.  As my driver took me in the van up the winding road to the Westin Dawn Beach St. Maarten, I noticed the change in the island since my last visit. Despite the downfall in the economy, it had submerged full of cars

It seemed as if everyone on the island and visiting the island now had a vehicle and the roads almost looked city like. On the other hand, there were positive signs from this transformation. New restaurants, shopping areas and hotels were everywhere, giving the island more variety for its visitors. While there was a small part of me that wanted to see the old St. Martin, I knew this one would be a lot more interesting.  

The only hotel I was interested in at the end of this long day was the one I was staying in.  The the Westin is basically on top of a hill, yet it boasts a spectacular beach.  When we arrived I was anxious to go straight to the Ocean restaurant.

Everyone had already finished eating by the time I arrived. It was quite late and I understood that they were anxious to retire. Tricia stayed with me while I ordered a light meal of a goat cheese and tomato salad. I also had my first taste of guavaberry in a Guavaberry Colada.  It was the spirit of the island and I was sure I would be tasting a lot more of it.

I was able to see that the Westin hotel (complete with a casino in the lobby) was very large and I was more than satisfied with my room -- and the view.  It was the bed, however, I was really anxious to hit. I was ready to recover from the day of travel and get ready for my first chance to explore St. Martin in nearly three decades.