Tasting Through Milwaukee

I had never been to Milwaukee before. I didn’t make it there during my traveling years and I hadn’t been there in the seven years I’ve been living in the Midwest. When I received an invitation to cover one of the biggest music festivals in the world that happened to be in Milwaukee, it didn’t take me long to say, “Yes!”

My friend Lisa, who was living in Green Bay at the time, met me in Milwaukee for a girls’ weekend.

Margaret Casey of Visit Milwaukee picked us up at the Hilton for our first day of tasting and touring.

Our first stop was at Indulgence Chocolatiers. I wish we had a place like this in Champaign.

Julie, the owner of Indulgence, fell in love with the chocolate shops in Europe and decided to open one in Milwaukee. She creates a selection of chocolate truffles, barks, and bars. Then, she pairs them with your choice of white wine, red wine, beer, whiskey, or cheese.

Everything sounded scrumptious and we finally settled on sharing chocolate & cheese and a chocolate and red wine pairings.

It was a great choice and I loved the pairings Julie had come up with. Our favorites were: Petit Nuage cheese with a Citrus Basil Honey Truffle; Riverbend Goat’s Milk cheese with Vanilla Malt Truffle; The Chook Sparkling Shiraz from McLaren Vale, Australia with Raspberry Chipotle Pecan Bar; and a 2012 High Valley Vineyards Cabernet from Lake County with Smoked Cherry and Pine Nut Bark.

We had more than satisfied our sweet tooth when we left Indulgence, but Margaret felt we should at least make a quick stop at PurpleDoor Ice Cream next door, where we fell for their Blackberry Quark and Ginger.

After the ice cream, Margaret drove us around Milwaukee a bit, pointing out some of the hot spots, including the LGBT clubs, historic buildings and Miller, the only major brewery left in a town once known for being a large beer producing area.

We next stopped at Great Lakes Distillery. I had sampled a few of their products before, but I had never been to their distillery to sample everything and I was excited to have the opportunity.

They have a full bar set up with their spirits for both tasting and mixing into cocktails. The spirits did not disappoint. I especially liked the Rehorst Citrus & Honey Vodka, the Rehorst Premium Milwaukee Gin, and Roaring Dan’s Rum.

All of the liqueurs here are made from Wisconsin products in small batches. The Pear Brandy was quite good.

Before we left Great Lakes we met with Founder Guy Rehorst, who gave us a quick tour of the distillery.

Lisa and I went back to the Hilton, where we found a gift basket of all things Milwaukee waiting for us from the tourist board.  

We changed for the evening and Margaret picked us up a little while later.

We headed up to Wolf Peach for dinner. It was on top of a hill with a great view of Milwaukee.

Wolf Peach is all about fresh and locally sourced ingredients and proudly display their vendors on their menu. Because of this, the menu will change with what’s in season and available. While some of the menu items we had may not always be available, we did try to taste some things that appear to be standards on their menu.  

Everything sounded delicious so we each picked a dish or two and decided to share it all.

The Roasted Mushroom Bruschetta was one of my favorites. The mushrooms were meaty and flavorful.              

By the time the pizza – which in itself was a meal – came out we knew we had ordered too much, but it was worth it to at least taste, with goat cheese and fresh peas and mushrooms.

We really didn’t plan on getting dessert, but when the chocolate parfait and lavender ice cream came out we couldn’t help but sample.

We also enjoyed the Crispy Cauliflower, with chickpeas in a paprika seasoning.

After dinner, Lisa and I headed to Summerfest for the first time. We got to hear the Doobie Brothers while sipping drinks on the Harley-Davidson VIP Deck. There were fireworks in the background and it was a pretty great setting to complete the first day in Milwaukee.

From Plymouth to London for a Final Day

When it comes to making the most of the last day of a trip, I’ve never had such a nice balance as the Pernod Ricard team (and Meghan Kelleher from Access PR) put into our “Tale of Two Cities” itinerary. They gave us the best of two worlds – and the best of English gin.

It was nice to be able to sleep in a bit until 8:00, but it was then time to rise for a light breakfast at St. Elizabeth's House and our last tour of Plymouth. We went to Burrator Reservoir, a beautiful location with waterfalls over the dam. We then traveled down to the river, where the Plymouth Gin team had some surprises for us.

We first sampled Classic Pink Gin, which is a combination of Angostino bitters, Plymouth Gin and water. It was very good, though I’m not sure I’d make it my standard morning drink. We did have food, though, to share it with – deliciously fresh English scones with cream and black current jam.

we finished eating we had duck races in the river. I’m proud to say my purple duck came in second and earned me a bottle of Sloe Gin. We were also all given a copy of the Savoy Cocktail Book and said our goodbyes to Plymouth Master Distiller Sean Harrison before heading to the train station.

The trip back to London on the train was a long one, but I did get a bit of work (and sleep) in. When we arrived in the city we were taken to the Zetter Hotel.  This place was the total opposite of The Dukes, which had been small, yet regal. The Zetter was modern with a contemporary décor. I was especially impressed with the vending machines that dispensed cocktails in the form of small bottles of spirits and their coordinated mixers!

After settling in for a bit, we met for drinks at the bar. I stuck with the Beefeater Gin and tonic, before switching to wine with dinner, just upstairs in the hotel’s Bistrot Bruno Loubet.

I started with Beetroot ravioli with a rocket salad, fried breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese. It was quite good and I liked the originality. The same could be said of my Provencale Petite Farcis in a tomato and chickpea sauce. I really enjoyed that and was glad to have a break from the week’s meat.

Dessert was a tough choice as everything on the menu sounded incredible. I ended up ordering the Apple Tart with Crème Fraiche and cinnamon ice cream, but sampled some of the Chocolate Delice with Pistachio Crumble and Olive Oil and Star Anis Pannacotta. Everything was as good as it sounded.

After dinner we went down the block to Zth bar, which showcases the mixology genius of Tony Conigliaro. The décor was as eclectic as the drinks and I think between us we pretty much sampled them all. Some of the standouts were: The Master At Arms with Myers Rum, a port evaporation and homemade grenadine; The Flintlock, Beefeater 24 Gin, gunpowder tea tincture, sugar, Fernet Branca, dandelion and burduck bitters; and my choice, Twinkle, with Wyborowa, elderflower cordial and Perrier Jouët Champagne.

I was the first to leave for the night as I had an early morning flight back home. I said goodbye to my new friends and walked back to the Zeter.

I left the hotel before dawn and flew back business class on American Airlines, so I had eight hours to decompress, catch up on some movies and get ready for the work week at home. It had been quite a trip to England and I was happy to learn so much about the country, Beefeater and Plymouth on this trip.

Discovering Plymouth – the City and the Gin

It was an early start to the day as we needed to get on a train and head to Plymouth. Pernod Ricard had made it easy for us to pack just what we needed by giving us each our own stylish overnight bags with our names engraved in the leather tags.

Just about everyone who knows me understands that I do not like train rides, but I made it through this one by doing some work and reading.  We were also in first class so there were drinks and snacks offered throughout the ride (translate: wine to calm me). The four hours went by a little quicker than I expected. I even enjoyed looking at some of the English countryside.

Sean Harrison, Master Distiller and Distillery Manager for Plymouth Gin, met us and we went straight upstairs at the distillery where they had their own brasserie. Everyone raved about the fish and chips, a specialty of the restaurant.

After lunch we went on a tour through town which culminated in the spot that the Mayflower took off for what would eventually be the United States. It was rather surreal listening to Sean Harrison tell us the story as a strong shower came through. Though it was windy and there was even a bit of hail in the monsoon like rain, he kept talking about that time in the 15^th century, accustomed to the wet and wild weather!

We walked back to the distillery through this English fishing village wishing we had more time to explore, but there was gin to be sampled and studied. Sean was a wealth of knowledge and he we learned all about the production of Plymouth and the seven ingredients used in its making – juniper, coriander, cardamom, lemon peel, orange peel, oris root and angelica root.

The tasting room was filled with gins from all over the world and we examined about just how different gin could be. Then, to prove the point, we were each allowed to make our own gin – using whatever combination of ingredients we wanted. The only requirement was the juniper, which gives the spirit the distinction of being gin. After we had sampled, five other gins, with more floral and citrus notes, we could pick up the buttery taste of Plymouth from its particular wheat grain.

I relished the chance to make my perfect spirit without citrus. It had lots of juniper and equal parts of nutmeg and cinnamon. I also added just a touch of oris root. Sean showed us how it goes through the distillation process with small distillers and I have to admit my gin came out quite good. (I got to bring some home and a friend confirmed that it was tasty.)

We had cocktails in the lounge before leaving the distillery. I ordered a Sloegasm, a simple, but refreshing mixture of champagne and sloe gin. We didn’t stay long, though, because we had to check in to St.Elizabeth’s House, an attractive and comfortable inn, and get ready for dinner.

Each room at the inn was unique. Mine looked pretty basic until I went into the bathroom. It was larger than the room itself, with two small bathtubs centered on the left and a shower in the corner.

After cocktails at the bar, we had dinner in the banquet room at St. Elizabeth’s.  The filet mignon topped with foie gras was good, but the potatoes au gratin were worth raving about. I also had a second crème brulee for the day, which is never something to complain about.  A few of the other writers stayed downstairs for a drink, but I was done after a long day and took the opportunity to catch up on some sleep before our second day in Plymouth.

A Super Tasting Day of Beefeater Gin in London

My first full day in London was a gin lover’s dream, as I tasted my way around the world of Beefeater, as only a “super taster” should.

I was up early and greeted the day with some yoga and my typical European breakfast – pan au chocolate, fruit, yogurt, and English Breakfast tea. I needed to make sure I was ready for a day filled with everything Beefeater.

We were picked up in the official Beefeater cars and took a short drive to the distillery. We were greeted by Master Distiller Desmond Payne, as well as Beefeater Ambassadors – mixologists extraordinaire – Sebastian (Seb) Hamilton-Mudge and Tim Jones. The latter two had “snappers” waiting for us,  a red that was basically a bloody Mary with gin (using sundried tomato paste for a very fresh flavor); green, with pineapple juice, coriander, mint, green tabasco sauce and lime juice; and purple, with beet, orange, carrot and lemon juice. They were all good, with a slight favor for me to the green.

Desmond took us on a tour of the distillery, explaining the history of both this company and gin itself. He also explained that gin is defined as a spirit that has juniper in it. He also declared that “today is the next cocktail era. People are coming back to gin.”

We talked about the different gins that Desmond had worked on for Beefeater: 24, full of citrus; Summer, with hibiscus and black currant for a floral flavor; Winter, spicy with cinnamon and nutmeg; and London Market, blended with pomegranate and cardamom. The point was well taken that you can use just about anything in gin, as long as there is also juniper.

Before having more Beefeater Gin cocktails, we tasted some other gin brands (like Hendricks, which adds cucumber and rose petal) to see just how different gins can be. Then we walked into the warehouse where the smell of juniper permeated the air. There are also other ingredients here, and they make sure they get the finest of everything: juniper comes from Italy; the angelica root and seed from Belgium; the coriander is from Bulgaria; the liquorice is Chinese; almonds are imported from Spain, as are the lemon and orange peels.

We were soon back at the bar tasting a selection of Beefeater cocktails with everything from green tea to Lillet Blanc. It was fun watching (and sampling) the creativity of Seb and Tim before it was time to head out and take a short break prior to our next outing.

There were so many interesting aspects of the Drink Factory, where Tony Conigliaro creates some of the magic that has earned his reputation as one of the greatest mixers in London. The space also happens to be located in a building that (is owned by and) houses a Pink Floyd recording studio, where the infamous The Wall album was produced so that added some nostalgia.

Tony C. led us through a molecular cocktail class in his laboratory filled with herbs and spirits (he also makes perfumes here). It reminded me a lot of my father’s laboratory, which I used to visit when I was a child. He made us a delicious Walnut Martini with woodland bitters, Beefeater 24 and pua tea. We also got a preview into the Fig Leaf Collins and Truffle Martinis he was working on.

Before leaving the Drink Factory, we had a little fun when someone in the group asked Tony C. about being a “super taster.” It seems there is a piece of chemically treated paper that only “super tasters” can truly taste. I wasn’t quite sure if I believed it, but when I could barely keep it in my mouth from the bitterness while a few said they tasted nothing, I became more of a believer and acknowledged that I am, indeed, a “super taster.”

Dinner was at Pinchito Tapas, an East London hotspot where we enjoyed a selection of tapas. While a lot of the offerings were fish, owner Tobias did make me some vegetable and meat dishes to enjoy with my Beefeater and tonic.

I hadn't been to the Tower of London since I was a kid, and never at night, so it was a unique experience to be there for the Ceremony of the Keys. We happened to be with a group of British dignitaries, so it was even more special.

We finished the evening with some nightcaps at Callooh Calley, a fun and unusual spot downtown, where the menus are made in old cassette tape holders. I had a Jasmine Fizz and settled back for a bit before returning with the group to the Dukes Hotel.  

Heading to England with Beefeater and Plymouth

I have traveled to many places in the world checking out wine and spirits, but when the invitation to go to England with Beefeater and Plymouth came, I was more excited than you can imagine. Gin is my go to spirit and the thought of spending a week drinking it as part of the job was a good one.

I’ve worked with Pernod Ricard on a number of trips, including Jacob’s Creek in Australia and Perrier Jouët in Paris. They always do things top notch and this trip was no different. They sent a limo to take me to the airport for the short flight to Chicago, where I was flying British Airways. Since I had a business class ticket and had a few hours, I went straight to the BA lounge. I hadn’t had lunch so I was hoping to catch a snack. I found a lot more in a large buffet with many choices. I settled on a little spinach lasagna, which was excellent, and a small, fudgy brownie.

When it was time to board, I saw my first airplane “pod.” It was a bit odd at first and took a while for me to adjust, but once I figured it out I was very comfortable with a draw to keep things I was using close, a foot rest that moved and enough positions to go from sitting to lying flat to make anyone comfortable. I also had a privacy screen between myself and the seat next to me.

The service on British Airways was excellent. They took care of whatever I wanted. I started with a Kir Royale before dinner, where I enjoyed the peppers with crumbled gorgonzola, asparagus and truffled cream. The main course was a wonderful manicotti stuffed with roasted butternut squash in a lemongrass sauce, and I finished with an elderflower cheesecake on a graham cracker crust with fresh raspberries. The only problem was that was served with the salad instead of after the entrée, so it was a bit warm by the time I ate it. With my meal I had a glass of Sancerre 2010 Domaine Bardine from the Loire Valley. It was 100% sauvignon blanc and full of citrus, but a bit grassy like the fantastic New Zealand ones.

I watched a few movies before a fell asleep for a short while. It almost seemed as if the flight wasn’t long enough since I had just settled in for two hours. For breakfast, I passed on the warm bacon roll with ketchup and just had a yummy smoothie made from guanabana, raspberry, cantaloupe and wheat germ.

Our arrival at London’s Heathrow was in fact early, but it took a full hour to get through customs. My car from Beefeater was waiting and Meghan Kelleher (from Beefeater and Plymouth’s public relations agency, Access PR) met me in the lobby of the Dukes Hotel and encouraged me to rest up and order something from room service for breakfast.

I slept for a few hours, enjoyed a cheese omelet, and decided to take advantage of the hotel’s perfect location (between Buckingham Palace and Piccadilly Circus) to explore a bit. The streets were a bit crowded from a marathon and I couldn’t get near the palace so I headed in the other direction and walked up and down Piccadilly window shopping.

I was back at the room around 5:00 and dressed for dinner. I met the group downstairs at the Dukes bar and had my first Beefeater 24 gin and tonic in London. We had a lot of fun getting to know each other as we headed in vans to Ox Brasserie. The views from the restaurant were just incredible in this all glass venue on top of the tower. I had another g&t before the meal. During dinner we drank a very good Domaine Rougine Vin de Pays from Languedoc Roussillon (where I’m heading in November).

The meal was by far the best I’ve ever had in London: Grilled English Asparagus on dried cured ham with Ragstone cheese, vanilla oil, roasted hazelnut and toasted brioche (a great mix of different flavors); Jasper Roast Lamb with parsley fregola, feta, hazelnut yoghurt and honey lavosh (perfect with the yogurt); Roasted Pumpkin Parmesan Salad; and a Chocolate Trio of a bitter chocolate tart, milk chocolate honey nougatine parfait and buttered pears.

I finished off with some Jasmine tea before we left. My head hit the pillow and I was out by midnight, dreaming of the gin drinks I would have at the Beefeater distillery the next day. 

Viewing NYC from the Palace to the Bulldog

I did a major change in scenery when I headed from Florida to New York City.  I had a lot to get in and decided to stay in Manhattan for a few days for the first time ever. There was no quick in and out this trip. I was going to explore, taste and visit my way around the Big Apple.

There’s almost nothing better than a greeting of fruit, snacks and refreshments after a long day of traveling, but I found the something better next to my bed at the New York Palace. I have traveled to many hotels around the world, from comfortable to luxury.

This one stumped me with something I have never seen before. It was so simple, just a little remote control on my night table that controlled the room lights and temperature.  Without getting out of bed during the night I could turn up the air conditioning, the heat, or turn either off. One of these days I will make a list of my favorite hotel room amenities and this will be toward the top!

The temperature control helped me get a good night’s sleep and I was in for another surprise when I opened my drapes. There right in front of me was St. Patrick’s Cathedral! Regardless of your religion (or if you have one at all), the sight of this beautiful, historical building is something worth seeing. I took some time to luxuriate in my large bathtub before heading downstairs to meet my pal David Kenas.

David and I have known each other for many years as we both covered a lot of the same players at the U.S. Open. He’s known as a tennis photographer, but what many don’t know is that he’s also a part owner in Bulldog Gin. We’d been talking for a while about getting together for a tasting and we were finally able to arrange it.

It was a cool day in Manhattan as we walked around trying to pick a place for lunch. Ironically, we ran into a Bulldog Gin truck along the way before settling into the lounge at Pop Burger. I ordered a gin and tonic then (which happens to be my favorite cocktail), but have since tasted Bulldog straight. While I usually go for the gins heavy in herb, I loved the smoothness of this one and I’m not alone. Wine Enthusiast Magazine gave this gin its highest ranking for the spirit.

Don’t expect the usual juniper jumping out at you when you’re sipping Bulldog. Instead, this London gin shifts the focus to dragon eye, a fruit related to lychee, and poppy. It comes through with a hint of spice rather than herb, and is easy sipping even on its own.

I had some free time to take a long walk back to the New York Palace before my daughter, Sam, met me. We decided to head down to Times Square to one of our favorite places. While many come to New York City in search of that five star restaurant, I was in search of comfort food and for me that’s a bowl of chicken noodle soup, some potato pancakes and a piece of chocolate marble cheesecake at Juniors. I have yet to find a place that does any of those better in my opinion.

We decided to head out for a drink and had some time to make it a relaxing one. We had never been to The View at the Marriott Marquis and I’m glad we decided to do it. We headed for a window seat at the top and enjoyed the view as the lounge rotated with our drinks. It was a Pear Ginger Cocktail for me and a Malibu Breeze for Sam before we called it a night and I got ready for a full day to come in Manhattan.

A Day Filled with Columbus Food and Spirits

After my morning tasting and exploring the North Market, I met Amy Weirick, who works with Experience Columbus. She put together a full day and it started at The Candle Lab in the city’s Short North section. We had time to mix our favorite fragrances into a candle (I choose hot chocolate and marshmallow), and do a little downtown shopping before heading off to lunch.

We ate in the German Village, one of the many diverse neighborhoods in this Ohio city. Among the Cobblestone streets and brick houses was Lindey’s, a popular restaurant that was filled to the brim on this weekday. Amy ordered the Tuna Tartar, a favorite of hers, and I enjoyed a Spinach Quiche, that was very good with a hint of bacon.

We stayed in the area a bit longer to head over to Pistacia Vera, which means true pistachio in Latin. You will find some pistachio items here, but the focus is all French. Like my favorite stops in Paris, there are macaroons that melt in your mouth, airy croissants and a selection of tasty treats. (In a tribute to the neighborhood, they even have a German Chocolate Cake.)

Anne Fletcher, who owns the dessert boutique with baker husband Spencer, took us through the kitchen, where the smells of sweets permeated the air and we saw the fine ingredients from around the world.

I will definitely have to make a trip back there someday to also sample their brunch treats, such as Baked Eggs with cream and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese in a tomato fondue.

We left the Columbus food scene for a while to tour some of the top spirits made in city, beginning with Watershed Distillery. Greg Lehman, who started the distillery with partner   Dave Rigo in 2010, took me through what goes into their vodka and gin.

As a gin drinker, I’m very familiar with the benefit of herbs in spirits, but the attention to that detail is one of the things that makes the Watershed Gin so good. It includes juniper, cinnamon, allspice, citrus peels, lemon, lime, orange and coriander, and all of those herbs are front and center for you to see before you taste.

The Watershed Vodka is made from only corn and distilled four times to 80 proof. I found it to be smooth and sweet, and I loved the unusual profile. I also love how they have utilized this space to delicately produce these spirits in small batches, keeping tight control on the quality.

The next stop was Middle West Spirits, where Ryan Lang was ready to tell us all about his spirits and how they built this fairly large facility “for production and to educate people.” Tours are encouraged as much as the tastings because the process is an important part of the Middle West products made by Ryan and partner Brady Konya.

A lot of detail goes into the making of the Oyo spirits with top-notch equipment, local ingredients, and lots of direction by this micro distillery’s owners. The Oyo Vodka is unfiltered and goes through 34 distillations.

The Honey Vanilla Bean is very light, with an opening mouthful of wildflower and a vanilla finish. While you don’t really taste the honey, Ryan says that’s what brings out the floral notes.

The can’t miss spirit here is the Oyo Stone Fruit Vodka, a start of cherries and apricot which bursts into just about every fruit you’ve ever tasted, and ends with a bit of a nutty flavor. The Whiskey is made from red winter wheat and is full of caramel and vanilla, without tasting as potent as its 80 proof.

Our final spirits stop was very different than the previous two. Brother’s Drake Meadery is more of a bar than a distillery with a tasting room, but it actually serves all those purposes. Mead is made from honey and is referred to as more wine than spirit.  Since 2007, the brothers Drake have used hundreds of different honeys and local ingredients to put together a collection of meads that is rather impressive.

While I’m not usually a big fan of mead, I did find a few that I really enjoyed. The Bergamot Blue is blueberry and takes advantage of the fruit’s slightly tart flavor to keep the sweetness down. The Apple Pie is very cider-like and quite good. The Pillow Talk uses lavender for an interesting flavor that is rather smooth and not very sweet.

From the meadery we went to the eatery, and one of the most well-known in Columbus, Ohio. I had heard nothing but praise for Basi Italia and I couldn’t wait to taste the creations of Chef John Dornback. We got to hear all about the ingredients (and love) found in these walls by the chef’s wife and co-partner, Trish, who joined us for dinner.

Trish and John had met in Cleveland and were married in 2002. A year later they began Basi Italia and the raves just kept coming. I was impressed from the start with the Gorgonzola/Parmesan Biscotti. We then nibbled on a scrumptious Duck Flatbread with caramelized fig-onion jam, fresh spinach and fontina cheese, as well as a yummy Zucchini Pronto, with toasted almonds and pecorino cheese.

A La Massa Sangiovese was perfect to get me in the Italiano mood, and the Fennel & Root Vegetable Cream Soup was excellent. Everyone's food looked delicious, but I had no problem with what I ordered.

My main course of Sweet Potato Gnocchi with roasted mushrooms and arugula in pesto was a great mix of flavors and I barely had room for the chocolate filled dessert (but I was really glad I squeezed in a taste).

The dinner was my final experience in Columbus – at least for this trip. I was happily surprised to find out about all the interesting food and drinks this city has added in the years since I had been there. I’m sure it won’t be another four years until I go back.