Showing posts with label Southampton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Southampton. Show all posts

Sip and Taste From Montauk to the Hamptons Wine Trail

It was a cloudy and cool morning, but it was nice to wake up to the sounds of the ocean from my condo at the Surf Club in Montauk. I threw some sweats on and took a walk to town, stopping at the Continental Deli for a fresh piece of guavaberry bread and some coffee.

After getting a bit of work done, I drove to Wolffer Estate Winery in Sagaponack. I wanted to see the place and taste their wines, but I also wanted to hear about the newly formed Hamptons Wine Trail.

My daughter Sam met me for a day and we sat down with Winemaker Roman Roth to talk about the nearly five years it took for him – along with the Long Island Wine Council – to have this declared a wine region. He explained how the richer soil than the North Folk holds the water better, making for more elegant wines here.

Wolffer grows 50 acres of grapes on the 170 acre Hampton estate. Roth grows a selection of varietals by being honest about what works in this region. I was impressed with the just bottled 2011 Rosé Wine, a combination of merlot (54%), chardonnay (21%), pinot noir (9%), cabernet sauvignon (8%) and cabernet franc (8%).  It had a light lemon flavor with a bit of minerality, making it a good food friendly summer wine.  

At a higher price point, the 2008 Caya Cabernet Franc (with 15% merlot) has a nose full of fruit thanks very careful hand picking, sorting and cleaning. Behind the fruit is a bit of white and green pepper, as well as some licorice.

We took a walk through the downstairs library, barrel and tank rooms at Wolffer before driving to downtown East Hampton for some fresh mozzarella Paninis at Golden Pear. We needed some sustenance before hitting the next winery, Channing Daughters in Bridgehampton.

Alice Dubin was waiting for us at Channing Daughters and started by telling us about the wineries passion for rosés. They make eight unique ones here as well as a few “oranges.” Under that category I tried the 2011 Ramoto, which got its orange color from skin fermented pinot grigio. It spent eight months in oak – long enough to pick up some extra flavor, but not too long to be on the vanilla side. I could taste the baked apples and dried apricots within what was almost a dry rose.

Also impressive at Channing Daughters was the 2008 Clones, made from 10 clones of Chardonnay grown on Long Island, and the 2008 Channing Daughters Sculpture Garden, a distinct blend of 95% Merlot from the oldest vineyard of its kind on the South Fork and 5% Blaufrankisch.

Another interesting thing I learned about Channing Daughters was that they love to teach about wine and offer a series of tasting seminars so that their customers are more aware about what they are drinking.

The final stop of the day was at a winery I had previously tasted. Duck Walk is a fairly well-known Long Island winery on the North Fork. The location there was twice the size of this one, yet size does not always matter.

Just like at the other two wineries on the Hamptons Wine Trail, Duck Walk used their Water Mill location for specific wines, producing 20 wines at this plant. The other difference is in the visitors the winery gets. I was in agreement with the explanation that people who come to this location are here for the Hamptons experience and happen to discover wine here, while those who go to the North Fork have usually traveled there for the wine experience.

Many of the wines at Duck Walk are light and white, which happens to be my favorite kind. We started with the Southampton White, a non-vintage blend of Cayuga and chardonnay that was filled with grapefruit and similar to Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio.

The 2009 Chardonnay Reserve was very buttery and a little oaky, but not at all smoky, retaining the lightness after eight months in oak.

On the red side, the 2008 Pinot Meunier, a grape that Duck Walk is the only producer on the east coast to make on its own, was a ripe red cherry that I really enjoyed. The 2010 Blueberry Port is just wonderful and must be tasted, as is the 2008 Ice Wine Vidal Blanc, not at all overly sweet, but overflowing with peach and tropical flavors.

Sam and I drove back to the Surf Club to get ready for the Montauk Mixer at South Edison, just down the road from where we were staying. It was nice to meet some of the local business owners and here about the Montauk Music Festival, party boats leaving from the area and the renovation of Navy Beach. We also tasted some interesting food, like the waffles and chicken, but had to save our appetite for a big dinner at Gurney’sInn & Spa.

I think Gurney’s was on Long Island even before I arrived as an 11 year old from the Bronx. Its each location is ideal for a getaway or a meal and the new deck overlooking the beach is a nice add on. Unfortunately, it was a cool night so we didn’t want to spend much time outside, but instead took a window seat.

We started with cocktails and I ordered a Black Cherry Cosmo, with Van Gough Black Cherry Vodka, a splash of triple sec and white cranberry juice. It was very good and went well with the vegetable puree soup. Sam had crab cakes that she said were flavorful.

Both our main courses were excellent. For me it was Goat Cheese Ravioli, with spinach and sundried tomatoes in a truffle cream sauce. Sam had the Bouillabaisse and it was filled to the brim with fresh seafood.

We were both pretty full, but managed to enjoy a few bites of the Montauk Mudd Pie and Gurney’s Cheesecake before heading back to the Surf Club. There was one more Long Island day to come as I began to make my way west. 

Hitting the Hamptons

As a teenager growing up on Eastern Long Island, I spent my share of time in the Hamptons. I even did the summer weekends as a young adult for a while. As the years went by, I wasn’t out there as much as I’d like, so when the opportunity came up to write for Hamptons Magazine on a weekly basis this summer, I figured it was a great excuse to get back in the habit of going out there.

Trip number one was with my friend Lynn. Wordhampton, a public relations firm that specializes on Long Island, set up an incredible schedule that would allow us to taste my way around the east end for three days. I don’t suggest a non-professional attempt this. Instead, make plans to visit these places (all great) when you have a chance to spend more time at them.

Stop one was at Little Red in Southampton and we were scheduled for a full lunch.  This is a cute little place in town, just off the water. They serve lots of seafood and Paninis, as well as salads and main dishes.  We sipped a few good cocktails, such as the Silver Tulip and the Southampton Sour, and enjoyed some salads, my favorite of which was the Roasted Beet, with Roquefort and goat cheeses in a port wine reduction.

When our “grilled cheese” arrived, we weren’t sure what it was, but we soon learned that the slow roasted duck, braised cabbage, Dijon and brie on sourdough was as good as it tasted. We finished up with some bites of two perfect desserts – Vanilla Cream Caramel and a Toasted Pecan & Honey Tart.

We left Southampton for East Hampton and checked into The Maidstone.  This beautiful old mansion had rooms in all directions with Norwegian touches (it's own by a Swedish company). I especially loved our “Out of Africa” room, modeled after the book written by Danish author Karen Blixen.  It truly looked like it was in the middle of an African safari, but had modern touches (like an IPod docking station and Wi-Fi).

After we changed, it was off to restaurant two, Muse on the Harbor in Sag Harbor. The place is brand new and they’ve got quite a bit to offer for their first season. We walked into to the sounds of Long Island’s own Billy Joel singing “Only the Good Die Young.” The décor was modern, bright and comfy. The bar is large and complete – they even make their own infused vodkas, as well as some unusual offerings (try the Basil Raspberry Beret).

We had some yummy Apple Smoked Pulled Pork and then were blown away by the day’s vegetarian special (chef/owner Matt Guiffrida has a vegetarian dish each night).  It was a Mushroom Parmigiana, a cutlet made from mushrooms that was breaded, pan-fried, covered in marinara sauce and mozzarella and served with a salad made from arugula, artichokes and gigante beans.

As much as we wanted to finish that dish, it was time to head off to Almond in Bridgehampton. The atmosphere there was totally different, with the restaurant on the main road and much more classic, complete with Nat King Cole playing in the background.

We sat at the bar and took a taste of “Fire in the Hole,” a drink made with jalapeño puree that was much too spicy for me, but a favorite of many customers. The Ruby Kiss was a bit milder and fruitier, with Ruby Red Absolute, grapefruit juice, lime, cranberry juice, St. Germain and a bit of simple syrup. We also tasted three incredible dishes – Brussels Sprouts Two Ways, La Gran Mac & Cheese (with black truffle and lots of cheese) and Goat Cheese Ravioli.

We got a bit lost trying to find Fresno, but that gave us a chance to digest before the next food (and also see a great sunset over the water).  When we walked into this cozy restaurant we were surprised to be greeted by Diego the bartender, making us a Cucumber Caipirinha in the style of his native Brazil!

The drink and Diego were the only things at Fresno that are from South America. The menu leaned toward the French, as illustrated by the asparagus and poached egg in truffle oil with shaved parmesan we first ate. The menu is filled with seafood (which both Lynn and I are allergic too), but we also were told the French fries here are famous and agreed. We passed on trying any as we were off for dinner, though we weren’t quite sure how we’d get through a full meal.

Dinner was at The Living Room, a beautiful fine dining room at The Maidstone.  We didn’t end up finishing our meals, but certainly not because we didn’t like them. The mushrooms on toasted brioche with a brandy cream sauce were full of flavor, as was the Ricotta Gnocchi, in a garlic broth with Swedish lamb meatballs (that were also stuffed with ricotta).  The Ginger Vanilla Crème Brulee was also something we hated to leave, but we were as stuffed as the meatballs!

By the time we were done eating dinner, we barely made our way up to our rooms before falling asleep. It had been a really long day and we had another one ahead of us. I had neglected the Hamptons for two long and it was time to make that up. 

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